Nyiramurema's infant a month before the naming ceremony.
The last time I paid a visit to the Kwitonda group it was to check on Nyiramurema's infant. The trackers had seen a white discharge from his left ear, possibly an ear infection. This little one had been through a lot, including an awful week when most of the gorillas in his group were coughing, one baby died and his mother lagged behind. After watching him climb around in the bamboo for a half-hour, I finally got a good view of his left ear: no problem.
Then, a few weeks after my visit, I was given the honor of naming the young gorilla at Rwanda's annual ceremony, called Kwita Izina.
Drummers perform at Kwita Izina, the gorilla naming ceremony, Rwanda June 2007.
Just two days before the ceremony, I received a call from Fidèle Ruzigandekwe, the lead administrator for ORTPN (Office of Tourism and National Parks). He asked if I would be willing to represent the conservation partners at Kwita Izina and name one of 23 infant gorillas. (Park officials customarily name the infants just once a year, partly because not all survive their first few months of life.) Stunned, I replied, "Really? Yes, of course — what an honor! Thank you so much!"
Thousands of Rwandans attend the gorilla naming ceremony in Kinigi.
I knew the naming ceremony was a major event, but I had no idea it would begin with two hours of drumming and dancing, or that tens of thousands of people would attend. The idea behind Kwita Izina is to promote the success of mountain gorilla conservation in combination with tourism in Rwanda. By spreading the word nationally and internationally, the leaders of ORTPN seek to raise awareness and funds to support all of Rwanda's national parks.
Dancing at the Kwita Izina ceremony.
Fidèle had explained that the ORTPN staff would suggest three names for each infant and that I'd have some time to think about my choice. I liked all three: Kwagura, which means "to extend" in Kinyarwanda; Furaha, "joy" in Swahili; and Umoja, also a Swahili word, meaning "unity." While the drumming and dancing continued, I wandered around asking people for their opinions, including members of the MGVP staff.
Special entertainment provided for guests invited to name a gorilla at Kwita Izina.
The event was well organized. Rwanda's president, Paul Kagame, arrived and took his seat; later he'd give a speech. The entertainment resumed and those of us naming gorillas were called down to the urugo, or traditional hut, set up near the stage. Half of the group entered the house to be dressed for the ceremony, and a dozen kids dressed in gorilla suits made the rest of us laugh.
Lucy waits with other guests invited to name a gorilla, including Marjorie Kaplan (far left).
As our group waited to be dressed, we introduced ourselves. I enjoyed meeting everyone, particularly Marjorie Kaplan (far left), general manager of Animal Planet. Fifteen minutes later, she and I found ourselves inside the hut in a tiny space partitioned from the men's section. We had to laugh — we'd known of each other for years but had never met, and here we were sharing a dressing room!
Jack Hanna named Bikereri's infant Ingufu, which means "energy/strength."
The week before the ceremony we'd had several special guests at MGVP, including Jack Hanna and Natalie Portman. They too had been granted the honor of naming a gorilla infant. Jack was among the first in line during the ceremony. He chose Ingufu (strength, energy) for Bikereri's infant in Pablo group.
Actress Natalie Portman was a special guest at Kwita Izina.
Natalie looked stunning in her ceremonial dress. Before announcing the name she'd chosen, she told the audience about her trek to see the mountain gorillas the day before. She'd visited Group 13 and said she had fallen in love with the entire family as she watched the youngsters play while their parents ate bamboo shoots.
Actress Natalie Portman named Ahazaza's infant Gukina, which means "play."
Natalie chose the name Gukina, which means "play," for Ahazaza's infant. This is a baby whose face I know well and have photographed several times, because both she and her mother have a mild skin condition. It's certainly not life-threatening, so we haven't done an exam and don't know its cause. We think it's a microorganism that thrives in moisture, one that may be spread by contact with domestic animals.
Nyiramulema's infant a month before the naming ceremony.
Just as it does before I dart a sick gorilla, my heart started pounding when it was my turn to speak. Somehow I managed to stay calm enough to start with the Kinyarwanda I'd practiced: "Marakoze, marakoze. Nyakubahwa, Monsieur President. Banyakubahwa, mwese." (Thank you, thank you. I am honored, Mr. President. I am honored, everyone.)
Nyiramurema's infant again — now named Umoja.
In English, I explained that this was an infant I knew well, because he and his mother had disappeared for a week during a respiratory outbreak in Kwitonda group, prompting the park staff to pull a special team together to track the pair. The ORTPN trackers camped out every night until the gorillas were safely located, then called the vet team to check them. Because we'd all worked together, I chose the name Umoja — "unity" in Swahili.
Jean Claude, one of MGVP's support staff, celebrates Kwita Izina.
Everyone here is used to seeing me in less-than-feminine field clothes suited to long treks in the mud and rain. After the ceremony many people — including our MGVP support staff — came up to me smiling, offering their compliments about how wonderful I looked in the ceremonial dress. I've saved the material and am now ready to dress Rwandan whenever the opportunity arises!
Lucy proudly displays the photograph of the newly named mountain gorilla, Umoja
Finishing my story about Umoja, I added that I'd picked the name for another reason: the future of this fragile species hinges on regional protection. The Kwitonda group of gorillas moved some time ago from the Democratic Republic of Congo to Rwanda. Were they in search of a safer area? Though I didn't say it, Ndakasi — the little orphan whose mother was shot in the DRC — is a constant reminder in my mind that we need to do more together, and soon.
[Rwanda, June 30, 2007. Pictures: Boanna Owens/MGVP | Lucy Spelman/MGVP | ]
Hi Lucy-
Great photos! I was honored to be here for this cermony, but moreso to learn of the great work you are doing in Rwanda. Thank you for taking time out of you day to show me around.
My best to you from Vermont
James
Posted by: James Hathaway | July 15, 2007 at 09:55 PM