By Lucy Spelman
Seconds after our guide whispered, "We are close," a silverback emerged from a shadowy patch of bamboo. It was November of 2006 and I was seeing the animals for the first time as a tourist, before starting my new job in Rwanda as regional manager of the Mountain Gorilla Veterinary project. I'd had plenty of experience with gorillas in zoos — behind bars. I took a step back. The silverback glanced casually at me and moved on, sitting down to a meal of greenery.
Later in the hour-long visit, one tracker realized I was the new gorilla doctor. He led me carefully through the bamboo and sat me down several feet away from a female gorilla with an obvious wound on her belly. As I focused my camera on the injury, I heard rustling and a few grunts. The rest of the family was playing nearby. "Wow," I thought, "I am in their world, and they don't mind. "
Infant Mountain Gorilla in Hirwa
Every visit to the gorillas is an amazing experience. On this morning, for instance, we reached a group before they left their night nests. We'd come to check on a newborn infant. While we waited patiently for the new mother to wake up, a curious 2-year-old inched a bit closer to check us out. We inched away, maintaining at least a 20-foot distance. I took this photo with the camera on max zoom.
Lucy at work in Rwanda's Volcanoes National Park
My friend Winnie, one of the scientists who studies mountain gorilla behavior, took this picture. I was smiling because we were finally headed down the mountain after a particularly cold, wet observation period. I'd dug out every item of clothing I had in my bag and layered it on — even a hat. This job offers many wonderful things, but glamour is not one of them.
Stinging Nettle, Volcanoes National Park
There's another reason for multiple layers of clothing at work: the stinging nettle, "ortie" in French, and "igisura" in Kinyarwanda. I've learned a new skill: how to navigate uneven, slippery ground and avoid getting hit in the face by the nettles. My success rate, however, is far below 100 percent. Amazingly, the gorillas eat this plant!
The view from the Visoke Volcano
On this clear morning, a high-pitched wailing noise startled me as we began our observations for a routine health check. It took me a moment to realize I was hearing a child crying on one of the farms far below. I searched the faces of the mountain gorillas for a reaction. Nothing. A car engine roared. Again, they took no notice. They must know humans live nearby, but do they know just how near?
After one cold night, we awoke to see snow on the mountaintops. I imagined the gorillas huddling to stay warm. The Volcanoes National Park — the gorilla park — is located in the Virunga Massif, a chain of ancient volcanic mountains along the shared border of Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Mikeno is still active; it even glows at night.
Some of the mountain gorillas live apparently normal long lives despite old injuries. No one knows what happened to this adult female. When her group was first habituated for tourism, the trackers noticed that her left hand was missing. Given the history of poaching in the area, we think she probably lost it to a snare.
The Kwitonda Group silverback plays with his family
The name "gentle giant" fits these animals well. The silverback, also called the chief (le chef), allows his family to play all around him. Smaller infants often use his 400-pound body as a prop in their games. The chief tolerates our presence, too. If he didn't, I'd be out of a job. We intervene only when there is a life-threatening health problem. The rest of the time, we watch.
Batwa Gorilla Dance, Kinigi
Most of the people who live in Kinigi, the town nearest the gorilla park, are farmers. Though few — perhaps none — have ever seen a mountain gorilla, they are aware of their upland neighbors. Here, the pygmy tribe known as Batwa perform a dance about gorillas accompanied by expressive singing and drumming.
A domestic cow near Sabinyo Mountain
We consider diseases carried by any animal — whether humans, cows or other species —potential threats to the fragile mountain gorilla population of just 700 animals. The threat from tuberculosis, for example, is the main reason commercial farms pasteurize milk. But many Rwandans dislike the taste of boiled milk. To date, tests show there is no TB in the cows near the gorilla park, but it may just be a matter of time.
Topi Antelope, Akagera National Park
Though Rwanda is only about the size of the state of Maryland, its geography varies greatly. Akagera National Park sits close to the border with Tanzania, only a four-hour drive from the misty volcanoes where my office is headquartered. Once in a while I have to remind myself how much animal life there is to see in this country, like the topi antelope pictured here.
Sunrise near Sabinyo Mountain
This sunrise could be happening any number of places in the world where there are mountains. The misty blue tinge reminds me of one of my favorite places, the Blue Ridge Mountains, where my mom lives in North Carolina.Though I miss my family a lot, including my Labrador retriever, I know this job is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.
[Pictures: Lucy Spelman/MGVP]
You are so very lucky to be doing what you do. I know the work does have it's pain and great loss and for this I thank you for the passion and dedication.I love your blog.We live in Arizona.My son is a conservation bio major with the hope of becoming a wildlife vet.
Bravo to you and the many who give of themselves in picking up the pieces to mankind's destructive ways.
Peace~
Posted by: laura | November 26, 2007 at 10:23 PM