Phurba Tashi Superstar

04/08/2009

By Ed Wardle

Phurba Tashi Sherpa Mendewa should have become a monk, but is now perhaps the most famous climbing Sherpa alive. Starting out in his father's footsteps as an expedition cook boy, Phurba, now 38 years old, has summited Everest an incredible 14 times. In 2007, he reached the top of the world three times in one season.

I've climbed on two Everest expeditions with Phurba as Sirdar — lead Sherpa. Slowly, very slowly, I've gotten to know a guy the same age as me but from a different world and who is fast becoming a legend.

Phurba Tashi Sherpa Mendewa

I ran into him in a small town called Namche Bazar in the Khumbu Valley, below Everest base camp. He had just returned from building this year’s base camp and was on his way home to finish his chores and say goodbye to his family for the two months he'll be on Everest.

Apart from being a supercharged, hard-core mountaineering Sherpa at the top of his game, Phurba is a kind, modest, softly spoken, even shy man with deep brown eyes and a charming smile.

Phurba's wife, Karma Doma

"You want food?" he smiles at me. An hour's stomp up the steep hill above Namche Bazar, Phurba lives with his wife, Karma Doma, who he met in the summer grazing pastures and who he married eight years ago. They have cheeky twin boys, Phinjo Sonam (yellow jumper) and Phinjo Jangbu, both 6 years old, and a pretty daughter, Sonam Chutien. Their oldest son, Sonam Phinjo, is 10 and fast reaching adolescence with a sultry disinterest to match.

Phurba with sons Phinjo Zangbu and Phinjo Sonam

They built a traditional stone house and guesthouse in the shadow of Everest, a day's walk from base camp. His children, like him, were born here at 3,700 meters and studied in the village school built by Sir Edmund Hillary. Lunch is rice, beans and yak meat.

For the equivalent of a Lance Armstrong in the Sherpa world, it's a modest lifestyle. Wondering if he realizes just how famous he's become, I ask if he's ever Googled his own name. But Phurba doesn't own a computer and has never Googled anything.

What he does know is mountaineering and yaks and if his boss, Russell Brice, ever stops coming to Everest, he says he'll stop climbing and return to his yaks. He has a herd of 60 and explains that a yak is male, a nak is female and the sweetest milk comes from a zum — a nak bred with a cow. Right now the yak business is bucking the international downturn. Two years ago one yak fetched $100; now they’re making $300 due to the increasing demand for meat in China.

Phurba with his parents, Passang Tendi and Lhakpa Doma

After lunch we visit Phurba's mom and dad down the street. Passang Tendi, 67, was an expedition cook back in the '60s and '70s for big Everest names like Chris Bonnington. His mom, Lhakpa Doma, has a smile that could melt the glaciers of Everest. She tells me she worries about her boy from the moment he leaves the village until he's safely back home again.

In a few days' time, Phurba will spend the evening and eat one last meal with his parents. Early the following morning, he'll shove a jacket and ice axe into his backpack and kiss his wife and children goodbye. Outside the house, he'll burn juniper branches and make a small prayer to his God asking for safe return from the mountain. And then he'll begin one more climb to the top of the world.

Phurba with his family in front of their guesthouse

Why? He would say it's not for any specific reason, but I'm guessing because for Nepal, it's good money, he's good at it and he's loyal to Russell. And, behind him follow all the other Sherpas and their families that rely on everything Everest provides. As one Sherpa said to me, "He makes the road wider for all of us."

Photos by Ed Wardle |

Comments

[Don]

I'm reading a bunch of "E" blogs and this is one of the very best entries so far.... you are the the No Amer version of David Tait ! ....:)

Keep on'

Don

[Kat]

I lived with Phurba's family for a week while studying abroad! They really are as nice as they look... some of the sweetest, kindest, most humble people I have ever met =)

[jane]

This is a wonderful blog! I loved learning about Phurba and his family - They all seem such wonderful beautiful people that just makes my heart melt.

I am wishing all a successful and safe climb

[paul]

phurba tashi. you the real hero.

[Muthu]

Really excellent blog about this wonderful person. if you can share phurba's picture on wikipedia, it will be grateful.

link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phurba_Tashi