Blast Off

[Click on the pictures to see larger versions with captions.]

A raft of news — good, grim and surprising — is coming out of ABC this morning.

The surprising: David Tait and Phurba Tashi have quit their double traverse of Everest. After reaching the south side base camp (they met no climbers ascending the South Ridge, so they fixed ropes downward, which must be something of a first), David contacted Russell to say that he was exhausted and was proceeding by helicopter to Kathmandu and that he'd fly home to the U.K. Phurba Tashi, on the other hand, will probably travel overland back to the north side base camp, where he'll be back at work soon.

ABC is full again. I arrived yesterday at noon, after a snowy hike from interim camp. Once here, I was immediately directed to gaze through a telescope to witness the down-going summit traffic. Between 60 and 80 people summited on May 15 and May 16. At noon on May 17 as I drank coffee, 13 people climbed the final summit crown.

The grim: Among others, two Japanese teams got into trouble yesterday. One Japanese man collapsed and died above the Third Step, where his body remains. He was a former Himex client who Russell had ordered down during a previous season. Another client, reportedly a 70-year-old woman, summited, yet collapsed at a higher camp. According to a Japanese observer, she was in the process of dying even as a rescue was being mounted. I'm unsure whether she survived or not at this time.

Since I got here a stream of minor casualties from other teams have staggered through the Himex camp. Minutes ago, a Westerner on oxygen stumbled through, supported by several Sherpas. Our doctor, Monica, treat two serious cases of frostbite this morning. One Japanese man had frozen fingers and toes, and a Sherpa turned up with frostbitten, blistered fingers.

It's hard to get a read on why the Japanese teams courted such mayhem up there. One Japanese observer I spoke to disdainfully dubbed the philosophy behind the Japanese commercial operations as "Summit or Die."

He became critical as he translated the conversation between Monica and the frostbitten Japanese climber, when the Japanese team leader revealed the team had no first-aid kit. Nor was he impressed with the antiquated equipment and the team's lack of down suits.

The frozen-fingered climber reportedly had hand protection better suited to a sub-alpine stroll — basic wool gloves and windproof overmitts (rather that the puffy, hand-saving down mitts most climbers use above 26,000 feet).

Said the Japanese observer, in essence: The clients on these expeditions have no acclimatization — they begin breathing bottled oxygen on the way to the North Col. The trips are marketed to older clients who are physically unable to make the up-and-down, camp-to-camp acclimatization jaunts that, for example, Himex requires of its clients. So, they make a single shot for the summit relying on oxygen rather than real acclimatization — and that's not safe.

The Good: Russell gathered his clients and guides together this morning for a briefing. He gave the go-ahead for everyone to move up the mountain starting today (for Team 1), and tomorrow (for Team 2).

The teams: Number 1 consists of Fred, Tim, Rod, Darius and Li Yong, with guides Dean and Woody. Team 2 is composed of the Japanese quartet and the climbers going without supplemental oxygen, Josette and Mogens.

If the weather holds and there are no delays, that'll put the Himex clients on top May 21 and May 22.

Russell's briefing was a take-no-prisoners lecture on the hazards of climbing Everest: He sugar-coated nothing, warning his people that death is a real possibility up there and reminding them of the people who've already died. He chastised those who've been with him in the past and disobeyed his orders to come down, and he made it clear that his word on turn-around times is final. It was a sobering lecture. But Russell Brice isn't known for feel-good chats about climbing Everest; he's known for chilling sermons that bring his clients back from the summit alive.

Signing off,
Greg Child

Comments

[joncatto]

HI Greg, Greetings from the US...not much to report back here. CV is heating up, mountains snows are melting...I'm gearing up for a shoot to the volcanoes of the
Congo in a couple of weeks.
Stay safe. Blog on amigo! I'm enjoying it. jc

[matt hardy]

bad luck phurba and david it wasnt going to be easy but congrats for summiting anyway sorry to hear about the deaths and that is an awful lot of people on everest in a couple of days good luck to the himex team as you are gearin up ready to summit hopefully awesome pictures again greg it gives a real inspite to everest for those who can only see it throught your pictures and your blogs just make it even better keep those yaks coming with more re-chrged batteries so you can take more poictures and write more blogs keep safe.

matt

[Everest Junkie]

Thanks for the shocking insight into some of the other operations on the north side. The idea of heading up Everest with oxygen before acclimatizing is plain frightening.

David Tait's reflection on his website regarding having to give up his bid for a double traverse is impressive. His respect for Phurba really shows, as does your respect, Greg, for the Sherpas on the Himex team.

Breaking news on the radio this morning (sorry - I don't have a TV) was that two Koreans had died on Everest. There was no mention of any of the other deaths. Weird how news works sometimes.

Best wishes in the final push to the summit. But remember that Everest will always be there for another try.

[Pontus Kjällman]

Maybe something has been lost in translation regarding the Japanese expeditions. It almost seems like "Summit or die" should be "Summit and die"... "Wool gloves and windproof overmitts"! J-sus, I wear better things for half an hour in just 20 degrees minus. Why are they so careless?

[Elizabeth RN "the nurse"]

As usual great updates and pictures.Good Luck to all.Keep safe.And Tim,you can do this.Press on,climb on,up up and away!!!!to the top of the big one. Elizabeth at "sea level",really.NC

[Albert C. Price M.D.]

I have an old friehd Dr. Tom Hornbein who climbed Mt.Everest a few years back. I was a Pediatrician in the Navy , And Tom was an Anesthesiologist. Do you know where he now resides? Al Price M.D. Lancaster, Pa., 17603 Served with Tom at the USNH, Charleston, SC>

[Albert C. Price M.D.]

I served in uhe USN with Dr. Tom Hornbein who climbed Mt. Everest a few years baack . I was a Pediatrician, and he was an Anesthesiologisst. Charleston , SC. Anyone know where Tom resides? Al Price M.D. Lancaster, Pa. thank you

[Alana Johnston]

Have just found this site after watching the Discovery Channels last episode of the 2006 expedition. Have to say the show absolutely took my breath away and made me cry on numerous occassions. I went to Nepal in 2004-2005 and went to Base Camp and I can say that was well and truly far enough for me! The courage and determination of everyone up there is astounding and you should all be congratulated on your achievments. Russ, you seem like a cool guy and I have the utmost respect for what you do, you literally have people's lives in your hands and you handle everything with such dignity and poise. On reading Greg's blog I was so happy to see that Tim and Mogens made it! It was heart breaking to see you turn around in 06 and I congratulate you both on making it this year. You are inspiring! I am hoping the Discovery Channel are going to do a 2007 show and look forward to seeing it. Once again, congrats and thank you for letting us have a little part in your journeys.