Hard Times at ABC

[Click on the pictures to see larger versions with captions.]

It's so windy right now that nothing can be done on the mountain. At 6 a.m., the Sherpas fled the North Col, where it was too cold and windy even for them. I can stare up at the summit from my high-altitude office (my tent) and see scrolls of cloud ripping from the top of the mountain at warp speed. Something must be in the air — maybe it's the low atmospheric pressure — because there's been lots of sickness in camp today.

This morning, a trekker attached to Himex developed moist, rattling sounds in his lung, probably the onset of pulmonary edema. Immediately, Dr. Monica ordered his evacuation, so a seat was rigged up and strapped to the back of Dorje, a Tibetan member of the crew, to carry the trekker down. Beside Dorje, a Sherpa carried an oxygen bottle connected to a face mask strapped to the trekker's face. Five other Sherpas headed down to base camp with the trekker. Later in the day, another member of the Himex team developed altitude illness and is slated to descend tomorrow.

Eight members of this group have now had to descend to the safer, lower altitude of base camp, some 3,800 feet lower than ABC. All are managing well as radio reports from base camp confirm. Most people will return in a few days.

I'm not naming any of the ill members right now because this blog might precede phone calls to families. What I'm certain of, is that all of the ill are doing well.

Yesterday was a key day for the climbing clients of the team when Russell and his three guides rigged up an Everest boot camp to test the climbing skills of the clients. Ropes were rigged on an ice formation and the clients had to show what they know by climbing one strand of rope using an ascending device, then rappelling down another rope. It's all essential stuff to have wired in advance if you plan to get up and down the thousands of feet of rope to the summit.

Results were revealing.

Betsy raised everyone's eyebrows when she tried to attach her crampons to her boots upside down. "I'm not a climber," she later admitted, qualifying that 10 years ago she wore crampons on a trekking peak in Nepal, but that guides and Sherpas had looked after her climbing needs.

"Everest isn't the place to learn how to climb," Russell later told her, adding he'd allow her extra tuition to improve her crampon and climbing skills.

"I'm a fast learner, and I've gone through harder stuff than this in my life" Betsy told me later, looking at the North Col, 2,000 feet above us. She added, "If I think I'm being a liability to others, I'll burn rubber down this mountain."

I'm sure lots of readers will think I am picking on Betsy, but I'll just repeat Russell's professional opinion: "Everest isn't the place to learn how to climb. Betsy misrepresented her mountaineering experience to me."

In the end, everyone is giving Betsy every chance to find her feet on this mountain.

Others didn't get such great grades either. Darius didn't know how to rappel, but he learned fast and considers he's now ready for the big climb; Tim and Rod needed pointers on using their safety tethers on the ropes.

David and Mogens decided to skip class, figuring their previous time on Everest gave them sufficient credit. Yong Li (from China) slid up and down the ropes fastest of all, but Hiro's Japanese clients found the rope work difficult.

My opinion? These folks are clients, not climbers. They don't have resumes that include years of climbing expeditions on which they've fended for themselves and climbed mountains under their own steam — leading the way, fixing ropes, setting up their own camps. All of this is done for them on Everest.

Here, they've paid their way into an elite guiding operation that will give them the support they need to have a chance to realize their dream of getting to the top of Everest. But they must be able to get up and down the mountain under their own power and be able to safely cope with the technical climbing challenges ahead of them.

The fascinating thing about this expedition — and one of the reasons that a Discovery film team and blog are covering their exploits — is that this is a group of everyday people who have chosen to take on the biggest challenge of their lives. They'll be examined closely by their guides before being allowed to attempt the summit, because this is no picnic — it's a journey into the Death Zone.

Tomorrow, the team will get their first taste of the mountain. They'll ascend the ropes and tag the North Col, then come back to ABC. It'll be a long, hard day, probably lashed by winds. Perfect training for what lies ahead.

Signing off,
Greg Child

Comments

[matt hardy]

nice photos thats were im hoping to go next year abc that is sorry to hear about the guys that had to go back well done to the guys that stayed and keep training in climbing all you will need it im sure

[Rick]

Is there really someone named "Betsy" who is attempting to climb Everest without knowing how to put on a pair of crampons? I had to read this blog twice to be sure I didn't miss something. Not only is she taking a huge risk, but she is imposing this risk on the other members of her team without their prior consent. Pretty self indulgent if you ask me.

Russell should think twice providing on the spot training. He knows that Betsy cannot gain enough experience in a few days to reduce the risk to an acceptable level. It's his job to make the right call.

[John Willse]

Tell Mogens that the Willse family from USA is wishing him well. We corresponded several times since last yr. and my 5 & 7 year old boys know he's back on "Big E" for another attempt at the summit (without O's, no less). Matthew (Matty) is asthmatic, but a fabulous little athlete...Mogens is such an inspiration to him!

Mogens, I hope all is well. send a picture, if you can..."Don't let the flame die out!"

Godspeed to all of the Himex 2007 Everest Team.

John Willse

[SteveH]

While Mr. Child is reporting daily on the activities that are occurring on Everest his reports to me are only slightly judgemental but balanced by his personal experience at high altitude; for that reason I have the utmost respect for his insightful perspective. He is reporting what he sees and hears from the various sources and I believe actual conversations with the participants. However I prey that the negative and speculative comments recently included in this blog and other websites don't reach those courageous climbers; their emotions and physical strength are being tested every minute of every day and some arm chair mountaineer speculating on what may or may not happen or what Mr. Brice should or should not do does little for the team members and the Discovery crew battling through clearly the most strenuous and exciting experience of their lives.

As a layman I have no idea what the technical requirements of climbing any mountain requires much less Everest but clarity of vision, mental and physical strength and conviction must be equally shared with technical abilities. I for one believe that Betsy will surprise the naysayer's because what she lacks in attaching clampons to her boots are surpassed by her incredible strength of character.

As you all advance to the top of the world my thoughts for your success is only trumped by requesting the safe return of all of you...but there is a special spot in my heart for Betsy...I miss her and prey daily for her safe return following her view from the top of world.

SteveH

[geoff]

Happy Birthday Greg!

Ace insisted that I go to Castle Valley for a big birthday celebration, and you were not there. Oh well. Please pass on love from my children, Danny and Sara, to "Guide Bill"

Yours on belay,
Geoff

[Rick]

Although I echo Steve H’s wishes for a safe return by all of the Himex climbers, I disagree that “clarity of vision, mental and physical strength and conviction must be equally shared with technical abilities.” It is neither speculative, nor an armchair assessment, to conclude that anyone tackling a mountain like Everest should have a minimum level of competence regardless of their strength and conviction. We do not send a soldier into battle without adequate training, no matter how brave, because to do so is unsafe for both the soldier and his comrades. Likewise for a mountaineer – inexperience equates to risk regardless of character, and that risk falls upon both the climber and the entire expedition (who will rescue Betsy if her lack of technical ability puts her in harm’s way?).

It is clear that Himex is selling climbing spots to anyone who can afford to pay, and that experience is not a prerequisite. In doing so, Himex is permitting an individual climber to impose the risk of his or her inexperience upon the entire climbing group. Allowing a climber to attempt Everest with no mountaineering experience is irresponsible by any measure. If this irresponsibility results in mishap, the blame must fall squarely on both the climber, who selfishly allowed fellow climbers to absorb the danger posed by his/her inexperience, and Russell, who will have ignored his own assessment that "Everest isn't the place to learn how to climb."

The other climbers and Sherpas, whose lives will be literally tied to Betsy by a rope, have a right to expect that she is minimally competent – a competence she admits that she does not have. Just because you can afford to pass your risk to others doesn’t make it right.

[jj]

i am watching all that u all r doing, be safe and gods speed jj the RN in SC USA.

[Henry H McNatt III]

To: Mogens
From: Tampa, Florida, USA
Strong and steady my friend!

Henry
ps - Thanks for the reports Greg!

[martin]

I am fully with you geoff.

I cannooootttt understand a man like Greg child that i respect the most.... by is accomplishments, lets an inexperience climber to just cross the khumbu icefall before never wearing any crampons. What if she slips and a sherpa has to rescue her with sacrificing his life...

I don't want to see a 1996 nightmare again just to say that an inexperience group was able to make the summit.

What is the pride in that...
This only make think that anyone cant climb everest.

And that is soooooo wrong.

Let them at least try to climb a less high mountain before.

This should be a requirement even before letting those people pay for the summit.

My regards to mr child and i know that you must make a living.

Make ur climb safe Greg.

[Edward A. Rogers]

For all of those that were not on the mountain or don't know the professionalism that Russell and his expert guides posses, should learn more about the manner in which the team is handled before making such irresponsible comments. Russell will not allow any climber to ascend the mountain if he feels that they will endanger themself or the team. If Besty misrepresented her ability, it is being discovered now and she will not be allowed to continue. As to the arm chair mountaineer, someone needs to check the credentials of Greg Child to know that he is an experienced climber and his assessment is completely professional and unbiased. Everyone has a right to their opinion, but for someone that was with this climbing team I feel that the comments being made are irresponsible and completely inaccurate. Russell and his guides are the tops on Mt. Everest and money has not bought the climbers a ticket to the summit, but an opportunity to test their skills to the best of their ability. If their ability only takes them to North Col, that is where their ascent ends. Stop criticizing and forming opinions of that you know nothing about. Russell's track record speaks for itself as he has never lost the life of a client on the mountain. This mountaineering company is the best and to suggest that money has blinded the ultimate goal of summiting or has endangered the Sherpas, guides or other climbers is completely unfounded. Read up both about Greg Child and Himex before making ignorant comments.

[martin]

i am critizing the commercial groups because they make available a mountain that those people would not be able to even climb the first 2000 feet.

Imagine if there is a blizzard, and the person that is not an experience climber losses himself in the icefall.
They will not have any idea to get themselves out of there.

What if they take too much time to cross the icefall, and because of that people that are fit get behind there schedule.

I just don't understand to make a mountain that high so available for inexeperience climber's.

That's my point.

I am sorry if i offended mister child.
Ijust wanted to start a discussion of letting inexeperience climbers on that mountain.

I mean there is a diffrence from an inexeperience climber that is not a guide then somebody that never have wear any crampons...

don't you think edward???

[Nordgaard]

It's really disappointing that Russell Brice and "the Network" have your panties in a bunch as far as your written communications go! On behalf of the friends of members of the Himex/Discovery group, WE DON'T ALWAYS GET THE NEWS THE IMMEDIATE FAMILY DOES, THANK YOU!"

Here in the USA, we have something called "freedom of speech" and, we are outraged that your communications are so stifled and color-less. It's so frustrating! We love our people up there and want the updates!

We wish everyone on the mountain the best of luck in the coming weeks and sincerely hope Big Boss Brice/Network let a bit of slack in your reigns and you can enjoy FREEDOM OF SPEECH too!

all the best,

[Allison]

Yes, it's bizarre and scary to think of inexperienced climbers on any high mountain, especially one as unforgiving as Everest. I worry for the Sherpas and the entire team. A part of me considers this an excellent example of capitalism :) But I also remember very well the discovery tv show last year. Russell was devastated by the loss of one of his Sherpas, and crushed that two members of his climbing team suffered frostbite. He had an excellent record on the mountain even before there were television cameras on him. Maybe I'm naive but I don't believe he is not going to let anyone climb that big hill unless he thinks they can.
Mountains and storms and altitude have a way of tossing people off Darwin's Survival of the Fittest Tree. Russell will knock more people off if they are a threat to his team and his Sherpas.
Of course, maybe the real issue here is who should be 'allowed' to climb Everest? Those with experience, knowledge and strength, yes. But where is the line drawn? Should only those who can summit without Sherpa support or oxygen give it a try because that would certainly be the 'purest' way to go? Or using Sherpas and yaks is ok and certainly those really expensive boots and that incredible down suit and can't forget the Gore tex. . .
I understand that climbers want to protect their sport. But I also understand the desire to climb Everest. In other words, I have no answer :)
And Martin, I think the Khumbu Icefall is on the south side so the HiMex team will not have to deal with that particular monster anyway.

[Elizabeth RN "the nurse"]

The updates are great.You are doing a super job Greg.Thanks Discovery.Hang in there everyone..there are so many people pulling for all of you...and TIM...you can do this!!! Elizabeth "the nurse" at sea level.

[Paul]

I have been checking the blog every day. i am looking to go to everest in a couple of years. i am wanting to know what kind of communications that the climbers have with their families back home. best of wishes.
Paul

[Rick]

After reading the posts on this blog, it is clear that there are two possible scenarios. Either Betsy misrepresented her experience, or Russell knew she was inexperienced. If (for those like Steve H who know Betsy -- I repeat -- IF) the first scenario is correct, then Betsy is both inexperienced and dishonest. Not exactly the qualities you look for in a fellow climber. Presumably, Russell would not have accepted her if she told the truth. Therefore, if Betsy misrepresented herself, she should already be on her way back to Katmandu. Since she is apparently being allowed to continue, then in this scenario Russell is willing to overlook both her dishonesty and complete lack of mountaineering skills. If Russell is the man of character described by others, and this scenario is true, then why is Betsy still on the mountain?

If (for those who know Russell – I repeat – IF) Betsy did not misrepresent herself, then Russell is not telling the truth and is selling climbing spots to anyone who can pay.

Time will tell whether Scenario 1 or 2 is correct, but either way someone has been less than truthful, and ethics are taking a beating. The losers are the other climbers and, especially, the Sherpas who presumably have little say in whether Betsy continues to climb. The winner is the Discovery Channel – regardless of what happens, it will make for good drama.

[Edward A. Rogers]

For the record, Greg Child is the journalist/reporter for the Discovery Channel and is not part of Himex. Although Betsy is showing signs of inexperience, she was able to make 2,000 ft climbs around base camp with ease. At ABC, if she can not proceed, she should and will be able to stay there and monitor the rest of the climbing team from there. She should not be told to leave the mountain as many have suggested.
The icefall is on the Nepal side of the mountain and the danger of any incident is minimal. Russell will not allow any climber to proceed if their abilities will not allow it. Everyone of the climbers is very logical and understands that if they can not continue, the mountain will be there forever and they will have other attempts at the mountain. All of the climbers are successful individuals and will not risk their lives in order to summit and risk perishing on the mountain.
Paul, the Chinese have set up a cellular tower at base camp and communication with cell phones and blackberrys are being used by all of the climbers and camera crew. When the climbers are at ABC and above the communication is non-existent. At this point, the need to stay focus and communicating with loved ones is secondary.
Everyone needs to stop speculating of any wrong doings by Russell or Betsy. The argeement is that each climber will only go as far as their ability allows them. Betsy knew that going into the agreement. Any novice climber can reach ABC with the proper acclimation and no one is at risk. If Betsy's cannot master the use of crampons, her journey ends at ABC. She is a big girl and knew the consequences. It is her money and therefore no one needs to judge her. Many climbers may suffer the same fate and will return the following year.

[Pontus Kjällman]

When I read about Betsy Huelskamp I recall an article in Outside online by none other than Greg Child himself. Written one year after the 1996 debacle it had the sub-headline "Is the past doomed to be repeated" and as the prime example of how inexperienced many climbers at Everest were he writes "One, it was clear, had never worn crampons before".
In this article Child also comes to the same conclusion as many others about what happened in 1996; clients can't be too dependent on guides and sherpas. That shouldn't be less true today and even if Brice's expeditions seems to have a rather high guide/sherpa to client-ratio one must remember that many things can go wrong at the same time on Everest. Guides and sherpas are not immune to altitude sickness, the weather can turn very bad and maybe the biggest risk; several clients can run into severe problems at the same time.

At the Himex site it is stated that "Acceptance on any expedition is not automatic" and "If Himalayan Experience Ltd. deems you unfit, or lacking adequate experience, your initial deposit will be returned in full." That sounds wise and fair enough but the question is if something hasn't gone wrong in the case of Betsy Huelskamp. Because even if the agreement is that the clients will only go as far up Everest as their ability allows them, remember Tim Medvetz and Gerard Bourrat's attempt to reach the summit in 2006. I think most people agree that it could easily have ended much worse than it did, even if they had turned around when Brice wanted them to.

I don't want to put anyone down and Russell Brice seems like a really nice man BUT it's better to ask though questions before something happens. And I liked the Beyond the limit from 2006 very much but there is always a risk that the series turns into something of a speculative reality-show. A show where the outcome can be grim...

[Rick]

I completely disagree with Edward. Betsy’s decision to join the team without any real experience was reckless, despite the fact that it’s “her money.” If her inexperience results in even the smallest accident (even at the lower, “safer,” altitudes) then effort and resources will be expended to respond to the accident, not to mention that any such accident could directly involve other climbers. This necessarily weakens/endangers the entire team. Money is not the issue.

Betsy had no right to make this decision by herself and unilaterally impose the risk of her inexperience on others. You do not “show signs of inexperience.” Either you have experience or you do not. Betsy is inexperienced -- this is not “speculation,” it is a fact she freely admits. Applying Edward’s standard, anyone with money should be allowed to try to climb as high as they can – no experience necessary. Unfortunately, that is what seems to be happening at Himex.

I also disagree that everyone needs to stop judging Russell and Betsy. They are part of a highly publicized expedition to climb the highest mountain in the world – a climb that is being covered by this blog and a film crew. They invited judgment by agreeing to splash the climb all over the internet and television. If Betsy really wanted anonymity, she wouldn’t be on Everest touting her inexperience in front of the Discovery cameras. She would, instead, be climbing a much smaller mountain learning the skills needed to tackle Everest in a responsible way (given her lack of experience, this would guarantee anonymity).

[Edward A. Rogers]

Everyone is assuming that Betsy has never seen a mountain. She has done the Annapurna circuit. The picture that is being protrayed by the bloggers is that Betsy is a women that decided to climb Mt. Everest while sitting on her couch eating bon bons. Yes, she is out of her league for the mountaineering part of this expedition, but she has not endangered any lives at this point. It sounds like no one responding on this blog has been to Mt. Everest on the Tibet side. I was there with this team and if it was not for time constraint for me to return to the US, I would have easily made ABC if I would have had two additional days to acclimate. Instead I reached interim camp which is 2,000 ft below ABC. This is where Betsy is now and she is not endangering anyone. She is in excellent shape and during the trip never suffered from high altitude sickness. Until you are there, you can not understand the mountain. I will make at least two more trips to her before seriously attempting to summit her. This does not make me irresponsible or endanger the lives of other climbers, but instead gives me an insight to the task at hand.
Russell's intergrity is being questioned and for those that have never been to Mt. Everest or met Russell, you need to get off your holy than thou attitude.
The issue of the money was just to make the point that Betsy is the only one that will lose anything by her actions. It was not meant to be that money is the only answer to any solution. With that said, it does take a boat load of money to accomplish this feat and without it, no one makes the top.

[Nordgaard]

Don't you guys get it? Sure Betsy has a bit of experience but, I'll bet she has been CAST by the Discovery Channel to be on the show, adding drama to the already popular Tim Medvetz (also a biker) story line. I bet Discovery "suggested" to Brice that Betsy be included. She has already been featured positively in another Discovery doc about biker women. Keep in mind that there are big network $$ at stake here.

[Rick]

Edward is confusing potential risk with actual harm. It may be that Betsy will never actually cause a problem due to her inexperience – we all hope this is so. Nevertheless, she poses a risk whether or not that risk is actually realized.

Betsy’s stated goal is to climb to the summit. She remains on the summit team despite having no business being there. And so, the conclusion is that Himex will at least try to put you on the summit as long as you can pay the freight. Experience helpful, but not required. I guess Himex needs to change its website.

As for being holier than thou, Russell is the one who set the standard, not me. Remember: “Everest isn’t the place to learn to climb.” It has nothing to do with a moral high ground, and everything to do with applying his own standard. Maybe money and publicity change the standard being applied. If so, it's not much of a standard.

For the record, I am a mountaineer with a lot more experience than Betsy (yes, I know how to put on a pair of crampons and, no, I have not been to Everest). Yet, I do not consider myself experienced enough to climb an 8,000 meter peak. Maybe someday. Until then, I would not ask other people to assume the risk of my inexperience, no matter how much money I have. And that, in a nutshell, is the issue.

[Rick]

Just caught the post on Betsy's previous connection to the Discovery Channel. What an amazing coincidence -- that she would sign up for a Himex climb being filmed by Discovery, and be accepted despite no real mountaineering experience. What are the odds of that?

Reality TV just hit new heights, literally, and the standards of mountaineering a new low.

Thanks Nordgaard. I can stop beating my head against the wall.

[Nordgaard]

I feel your pain!

[Pontus Kjällman]

Yes, you might be on to something there, Nordgaard.
Now just wait for "Commenting disabled" for this blog. And for Paul Sr. and Paul Jr. to climb next year! :)