As I wrote last week, after returning from Africa, and before moving to Rhode Island, I flew to Guyana — a small country on the northern coast of South America. I went to visit my friend Diane McTurk at her ranch, Karanambu, located near the border with Brazil. This region, known as the North Rupununi, is notable for its tremendous biodiversity. Not only is it prime habitat for giant river otters, hundreds of other endangered species also thrive here, including giant anteaters, caiman alligators, jaguar, river turtles, storks and macaws. I should add that it’s also the buggiest place I’ve ever been!
Diane has been working for years to turn Karanambu into a protected area for all of the animals who live there. Now that I don’t live quite so far away, I’m ready to get more involved. The “one-health medicine” approach to mountain gorilla conservation certainly could work in the Rupununi — with modifications, of course.
The good news is that I’m not alone. There are more of us than ever before who are ready to help. Toward this end, Diane is in the process of creating a non-profit organization, Karanambu Trust. The new charity will support conservation in the Rupununi by raising funds, spreading the word and providing scientific expertise. The area remains relatively unstudied. As conservationist Baba Dioum once said, we will protect only what we love, and love only what we know.
The timing of my visit couldn’t have been better. Not only was Diane gearing up for a visit to London to solidify the plans for the Trust, she had also just gotten a call about an orphan in trouble. Apparently a tame male otter had been hanging around the Iwokrama Forest Lodge, about a six-hour drive from the ranch. I had just landed at Karanambu when Diane told me about the problem. She added, “What wonderful timing for your visit. Evidently he needs to see a vet!” Buddy was suffering from fly strike — maggots. As you can see from this photo (taken later in the week), the problem was not immediately obvious.

Before we set off to rescue Buddy, I was able to gather a little more information. Someone at Iwokrama had been able to pull out some of the larvae from the infected area around his tail with tweezers. They saved them for me to photograph — ick! These were screwworms, maggots that burrow into healthy tissue. The flies are usually found around (human) garbage and livestock pens. We deduced that Buddy must have been kept in a village somewhere, probably as a pet. This wasn’t a problem that would affect a healthy, free-living wild otter.

The treatment for fly strike is to pick out the maggots, treat the patient with antibiotics, and, if necessary, anesthetize it for surgery to remove damaged tissue. Anesthesia wouldn’t be easy, but at least I knew how to do it. Years ago, I’d developed a protocol for giant otter anesthesia. My first patient was Georgie, shown here, at the Georgetown Zoo in Guyana. I knew that trying to sedate the otter lightly wouldn’t work. The giants might as well be tigers or bears in this respect — they’re not safe to handle without full anesthesia.

A big change at Karanambu since my last visit is that the ranch now has now Internet access. What a difference it makes! I jumped on Google to find out more about a screwworm spray the lodge staff had mentioned, and found that the product they were ready to spray on Buddy, Mata Bicheira (Portuguese for Bug Killer), is a dangerously strong organophosphate (chemical insecticide). I sent a note to Iwokrama asking them not to use the stuff under any circumstances. I couldn’t understand how they were able to pick out Buddy’s maggots. Was he so sick that he couldn’t move? This photo (taken with Denton at Karanambu a week later) shows his overall size — about 35 pounds, or half the weight of an adult.

Our plan was to drive to the Iwokrama field station the next morning, be there by noon, meet Buddy, and make a recommendation as to whether or not he’d need treatment. Diane and I were thinking that he should probably be moved to Karanambu, since her staff is accustomed to taking care of orphaned otters. This was the first one to show up at Iwokrama. We scrambled around to gather necessary supplies, including a plastic dog kennel for the car ride. Here is Ryol (yes, that’s the correct spelling), Karanambu’s ranch manager and our driver for the upcoming adventure, getting the Land Rover ready.
As we headed out across the savanna early the next morning, Diane and Ryol discussed our route. Normally, we would have to go the long way around to get to the main road, a two-hour drive as opposed to 45 minutes. Since it hadn’t been much of a rainy season so far, we decided to take the dry-season shortcut . . . and our tires soon sank deep into slippery mud. Fortunately, we weren’t far from one of the Karanambu outposts. We had several passengers with us who were making the most of a free ride. Diane asked one of them, a young woman, to run for help, calling after her, “Tell them to bring horses. We need horses!” I thought to myself, Yeah, right. But about an hour later, three vaqueros (cowboys) came to our rescue. As this photo shows, Horse Power rocks!

After a fairly uneventful ride (one flat tire), we arrived at Iwokrama in time for a late lunch. Buddy hadn’t been seen all morning. The staff had begun to fear the worst. Fortunately, he showed up at the boat landing early in the afternoon, looking for a handout. While the staff fed him some freshly caught fish, Diane and I learned more about his history. He was one of a pair of young giant otters raised by an Amerindian couple at a nearby village. The female had been shot for killing a pet bird. The male had escaped — for now.

For the past five days, Buddy had been begging for food along a stretch of river frequented by fishermen as well as wild otters. He was exceptionally tame — this photo was taken without any zoom. Any of us could walk right up to him, which meant that his chances of surviving around Iwokrama weren’t good. He would soon become a nuisance at the field station, and if other otters didn’t kill him, there was a good chance that people would. On the other hand, moving him to Karanambu wouldn’t guarantee his safety. There were wild otters there, too.

I was relieved to see Buddy was generally in good health aside from the fly strike. As this photo shows, he has some old scars on his neck. There’s also a place where I can feel what I think is a fragment of a bullet or a pellet lodged under his skin. Fortunately, it’s small, and even if it’s made of lead, it shouldn’t do him any harm.

After Buddy finished eating, I learned how the staff had been able to see the maggots around Buddy’s rear and pick them out without getting bitten. The otter came up to the staff housing area to dry off, then curled up in a ball and began to suck on his private parts, making a continuous humming noise, the sound cubs make when they’re nursing. “Oh, no, he’s a pervert!” Diane exclaimed. Absorbed in this unattractive occupation, Buddy made it easy for me to examine his wounds.

Such behavior is unfortunately common among hand-raised carnivores — otters, foxes, and raccoons, for example. It can start early as displacement nursing, or later as the animal begins to mature sexually, and can become an ingrained, or stereotypical, habit associated with boredom. As you can tell from Diane’s reaction, she’d encountered the problem before. Above is a pair of earlier cubs, Pluto and Persephone, shown with their adopted wild pack. They nursed on each other’s tails and ears for a few months, but the behavior stopped once they went wild.
I’d noticed that Buddy had worn areas along the inside surface of each rear leg. Now I understood why. The fly strike made sense, too. The otter had been keeping his rear end moist, and/or exposed, and this had attracted the flies. But the good news was that he and Diane had already started to bond. Even better, he didn’t need anesthesia or surgery. Moving him to Karanambu might be enough to break the behavior.
For the rest of Buddy’s story, see the new blog I’m launching to support conservation at Karanambu. It will be called “Helping Otters —Big and Small” and will be posted on
Wildlife Direct, a site that raises money for conservation through blogging. Diane has asked me to be a Trustee of the new charity. I said yes, of course!
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